From record-breaking waves to personal transformation, the big wave surfer reflects on his most defining moment.
Big wave surfer Garrett McNamara, known worldwide for riding some of the tallest waves on Earth, says one wipeout nearly a decade ago changed his life forever—physically, mentally, and spiritually.
McNamara, now 57, made headlines in 2011 when he rode a 78-foot wave in Nazaré, Portugal, earning him a world record and international fame. The feat, later surpassed, remains a defining moment in surfing history. But it was a devastating crash five years later that truly redefined him.
A Brutal Injury and Personal Reckoning
In 2016, while surfing Mavericks, a notorious surf break off the coast of Northern California, McNamara suffered a severe wipeout that shattered his shoulder in ten pieces. What followed was not just a long physical recovery but a descent into what he describes as “a very dark, dark time.”
His wife, Nicole, recalled the emotional toll the injury took on both their relationship and family life. At the time, she was home caring for their young son when she received word of the accident.
“That began a very long journey of depression,” she said. “Garrett was chasing waves for the wrong reasons. He wasn’t in it for the passion anymore—he was trying to prove something.”
A New Way of Living
The injury forced McNamara to reassess his life. Nearly ten years later, he says the experience shifted his entire perspective.
“I’ve released the monkey,” he told CNN Sports. “I don’t feel the need to ride every swell around the world. I’ve slowed down. I’m being more intentional, spending time with my family, being present.”
This transformation is at the heart of the latest season of 100 Foot Wave, the acclaimed docuseries chronicling the lives of big wave surfers, including McNamara and Nicole. Now in its third season, the series delves into both the physical and emotional risks of the sport—highlighting tragedies, brain injuries, and the toll on families.
For McNamara, who once lived to chase the world’s biggest waves, life has taken on new meaning. “I’m doing better than I’ve ever done on land,” he said.
Surfing as a Family Affair
Despite his new outlook, McNamara hasn’t left surfing behind. With his children showing interest in the ocean, he’s preparing for the next chapter—one that may involve passing down the craft.
“If my son Barrel wants to follow in my footsteps, I’ll make sure he trains harder than anyone and understands the risks,” he said. “But I’m not eager for anyone to do what I did.”
Nicole sees their contrasting personalities as the secret to their lasting bond. “We’re polar opposites,” she said. “He brings the freedom and thrill I crave, and I’m the grounding force he needs.”
Together, they continue to face life’s challenges, whether in front of the camera or at home raising a family.
Forever Drawn to the Ocean
Though McNamara’s days of conquering record-setting waves may be behind him, his connection to the sea endures.
“I won’t jump out of planes or ride horses,” he said. “But I’ll always feel at home in the ocean.”
Even if he’s no longer leading the charge on the board, McNamara envisions himself mentoring the next generation, guiding them through the waves on a jet ski. “I’ll be riding big waves until the end,” he added, “even if it’s through someone else’s ride.”