A 400-Year-Old Landmark Threatened by Rising Rents
In the heart of Amsterdam, nestled on the lively Haarlemmerdijk street, ‘t Zonnetje tea and coffee shop has stood as a quiet witness to nearly four centuries of history. But today, the beloved institution faces an uncertain future. Its longtime owner, Marie-Louise Velder, 76, plans to shutter the shop at the end of May, a casualty of skyrocketing rents and a wave of gentrification fueled partly by overtourism.
Founded as early as 1612, according to historical records, ‘t Zonnetje has long been a cornerstone for locals and visitors alike. A gilded sun-shaped sign hanging over its door welcomes patrons into a world of timeworn wooden floors, vintage tins of loose-leaf teas, and dispensers of coffee beans sourced from around the globe. Yet, despite its rich heritage and loyal customer base, Velder says she can no longer sustain the business amid rising operational costs and decreasing revenue.
“I hope that help is coming from above,” Velder said during an interview with CNN, reflecting a mixture of sadness and resilience. “This is my baby.”
A Tea-Filled Time Capsule at Risk
‘t Zonnetje is more than just a tea and coffee retailer — it is a living piece of Amsterdam’s soul. Over the years, the shop has evolved from selling simple herbs and coal to offering up to 350 varieties of tea, many crafted from Velder’s secret recipes. Coffee, sourced from countries such as Ethiopia and Peru, remains a hallmark of the store’s inventory.
For longtime residents like Kate Carlisle, the shop’s potential closure feels like losing a part of the city’s authentic spirit. “It is a heritage site, the building itself, the history behind it, the street,” she said. “Without places like this, Amsterdam risks becoming just another strip mall.”
Employees echo Carlisle’s sentiments, highlighting ‘t Zonnetje’s role as a neighborhood gathering spot where customers, often seniors living alone, could socialize over a warm cup of coffee or tea. “It’s more than a shop — it has a very important social role,” said Nathalie Teton, an employee at the shop.
Despite these deep community ties, escalating rent has been relentless. After Velder took the landlord to court to challenge a proposed doubling of rent, the final negotiated rate still far exceeds what the business can sustain. Velder’s daily revenue, she says, hovers around €300 ($340), while her yearly rent is approximately €50,000 ($56,000).
The Broader Struggle Against Overtourism
‘t Zonnetje’s struggles highlight a broader dilemma facing Amsterdam as it grapples with overtourism and real estate pressures. The city has introduced measures like tourist taxes, cruise ship bans, and vacation rental restrictions, yet many critics argue these efforts have not gone far enough to protect its historic businesses.
Urban anthropologist Dimitris Dalakoglou described the situation bluntly, warning that Amsterdam is becoming “an empty façade of itself,” overtaken by commercialized ventures catering solely to tourists rather than preserving its local heritage.
Meanwhile, corporate cannabis shops and trendy cafes continue to proliferate, pushing out long-established, locally owned institutions like ‘t Zonnetje. As Velder faces a legal and financial battle she describes as emotionally exhausting, her story illustrates how fragile the city’s authentic fabric has become.
An Uncertain Future for a Cultural Gem
Despite the daunting circumstances, Velder’s spirit remains sunny, much like the shop’s namesake. She greets each customer with warmth, easily switching between Dutch and English, sharing laughs, memories, and stories. Her devotion is evident in every corner of ‘t Zonnetje, from the original wooden floors to the vintage Berkel scale that anchors the counter.
Yet, even her optimism has limits. “It’s not just a business, it’s my life,” she said. Whether the municipal government will step in to offer protection remains unclear. In a statement to CNN, city tourism officials acknowledged the significance of such closures but claimed that protecting local businesses falls outside their direct purview.
For Velder and her loyal customers, time is running out. “It is a jewel that needs protecting,” Carlisle emphasized. “Amsterdam doesn’t have much of this anymore.”
As Amsterdam prepares to celebrate its 750th anniversary this year, the potential loss of ‘t Zonnetje serves as a poignant reminder: without proactive efforts to safeguard its living history, the city risks losing the very essence that made it iconic.